What followed was a ton of research about what lens(es) to buy. I settled on the Nikon 24-120 f/4G ED VR which seemed to be the best "walkabout" lens available for this camera. In most tests about the only weakness was vignetting and distortion at wide angles. But, both of these issues are easily handled in post processing. Another lens that really looked attractive was the Nikon 16-35 f/4G ED VR which is a more specialized WIDE angle lens with incredible quality. I sorted all the pictures from my recent trips by focal length and found that well over 50% were taken in the 24 - 35 range. This lens was going to be a tough call because it doesn't have enough range to be my only lens, and I sure hate carrying a 2nd lens, but on the other hand the quality of this thing looked amazing and it fit my style of photography very well.
So I waited till the Black Friday weekend, hoping to snag some deals and I ended up buying the D600 and both lenses. And then there's all the other stuff that goes with switching camera brands and formats. So here's all the stuff I ended up getting:
Nikon D600 Body
Nikon 24-120 f/4G ED VR lens
Nikon 16-35 f/4G ED VR lens
Nikon SB-700 AF Speedlight Flash
(2) Hoya 77 mm UV Haze HD (High Density) digital filters
(1) Hoya 77 mm NXT Polarizing Slim Frame Glass filter
(1) Hoya 77 mm Neutral Density (NDx8) 0.9 Filter
(3) Sandisk 32GB SDXC Extreme Pro 95 MB/s SD cards
(2) Nikon EN-EL 15 Lithium-Ion batteries
Nikon ML-L3 Wire Remote Control (Infrared)
Cotton Carrier Carry-Lite camera holster system
Lowepro S&F Lens exchange case 100 AW
Epson Stylus Pro 3880 17" printer
Yikes!! That's a hit on the bank account! But, as I've said before, photography has become an integral part of the travel experience for me. No compromises here. Gonna have to tighten the belt somewhere else, I guess. I will try to post impressions of the new equipment as I get a chance to try it out.
Merry Christmas to me!!
P.S. Anyone interested in a really good deal on a nice Canon 50D with an EOS 15-85 lens, and lots of extras? It's the outfit that took all of the photos on the recent trips. EMail me for details, if interested
]]>If I'm taking pictures where the lighting is tricky, I will often set my camera to do auto-bracketing in high-speed mode. So I fire off 3 shots at 6 frames per second of the same target and one is at the metered exposure, one is a little darker, and one is a little lighter. I use these sets of pictures in two ways. Obviously it gives me 3 choices of the same image and I can select the one with the best exposure. If the scene is very contrasty, I can sometimes combine these three images to create an HDR image with more tonal range than any single shot can capture. So, 2 out of 3 of these never make it on this website.
Due to impatience and some immaturity in my photography skills I often find that I will fire off a picture of a "wow" sight when I first see it, and then I take subsequent better shots after I've had a chance to really evaluate the best perspective for that shot. So, often that first picture or two gets sorted out.
Especially for landscapes, it is usually very important to me that the entire picture be in sharp focus. For landscapes I almost always shoot in aperture priority mode with the aperture at f/8 or f/11 if the lighting is good. This usually give me enough depth of field to keep everything in the frame reasonably sharp. So, if any significant part of the picture is not nice and sharp, it won't make the cut.
Many pictures get thrown out simply because I don't like the composition or "balance" of the image. I generally try to follow the "rule of thirds" when I compose a shot. Basically the rule of thirds says imagine a tic-tac-toe grid on the frame and position the significant element of the picture near one of the 4 points where the lines would cross. If possible, I also like to balance that with something else with some "weight" at the opposite intersection. Some other compositional tricks that I employ where possible is to look for elements to frame the picture, like maybe trees on both sides that bow towards the center.
A very important compositional technique that I and most landscape photographers use is to be sure and include something in the foreground. This gives the picture more depth, scale, and often, some needed detail. On trips like the John Muir hike where there are beautiful views all around, finding a great view is the easy part. As a photographer, what I'm looking for is a good foreground for that great view. Something with some color, especially reds and oranges seems to work really well. I also like to shoot from very low to the ground. This works very well like where you can shoot across a rocky stream or a lake with a nice reflection. The rocks and water make a great foreground but sometimes you literally have to lay on your belly to get the desired effect. Of course when you are taking a picture of a far away landscape such as mountains with a bush or rocks very near the lens, you really need a lot of depth of field to keep everything sharp. If that foreground is not sharp, it is very noticeable and gets scrapped.
Sometimes I will have a number of good shots of the same scene and in those cases I usually narrow it down to no more than 1 or 2 pictures of the same basic scene. I've found that when you do a slide show that includes several pictures in a row that are similar the "wow" factor sort of gets lost. So you really want as much variety in the images as possible. On many occasions I've gone through a slideshow of ALL of my images and frankly I will often be a little disappointed. The repetition of the same scene seems to negate the impact of those photos. Once I've sorted out all the repeats and bad shots the slide show has so much more impact.
And probably the most important reason to sort out so many pictures, is that nobody enjoys wading through hundreds of pictures, especially if there are obvious repeats and poor quality pictures. I know I have too many photos on some of these galleries but I just couldn't stand to cut any more. But then, first and foremost, this website is for me to enjoy, so I guess I get the final say ;-)
]]>FWIW, I finished the marathon in 3:34. Not a great time for me considering the first half of the race was a beautiful very slight downhill slope that wound its way down from up in the mountains. It was very cool, almost cold, at the start and I went out way too fast, lured by the gorgeous scenery and easy downhill terrain, but by the time I got out on the flats it was REALLY hot and I slowed way down. In the spring of that same year I ran the Boston Marathon for which I had a qualifying time of 3:24.
]]>Really starting to develop a workflow with Lightroom though and I'm really liking what I see so far. Milford Track, for instance had over 600 negatives to sort through. And, as raw scans, the color balance and exposure is seldom right, or even close for that matter. But in grid view I adjust the exposure for a single negative using simple +/- exposure buttons and then when I get it right, apply that same adjustment to all the other negatives on that roll that are probably off about the same amount. Same for the color balance. For color balance I look for a negative on the roll with some gray, or skin, or anything that would make it easier to judge the color balance and I fix that one first. Then I copy those settings to all the other negatives for that roll of film that were shot under similar conditions. At this point I'm not looking for perfect exposure or color balance. I just need them good enough to make judgements about whether they are a "keeper" or not.
Once I have the exposure and color balance in the ball park, I can start sorting out the candidates for further processing (and identify the junk ones). Lightroom has a number of ways to grade or categorize photos including a color code, stars, and flags. I've been using the flag approach which has 3 states, pick, reject, and just flagged. Photos with the "pick" flag are candidates for further processing, and the "reject" flag is for photos that I don't intend to process further, and I treat the other state is undecided. When I view the negatives on Lightroom I can use the flags to limit which pictures I see. For instance, I may not want to see the rejects, or only the picks, etc. I typically go through and reject the obvious ones (by selecting the photo and hitting 'X'), and because I set my filter to not show rejects they immediately disappear from the grid. I "pick" (highlight and hit 'P') for the obvious keepers. Then I'm often down to a lot of groups of similar shots that were taken from slightly different vantage points or shutter speed, or just plain shot multiple times. Typically, I will only want to process one of these. The task is to narrow this set of similar pictures down to the best one.
In Lightroom, I can select the group of candidates and it will present them 2 at a time, side by side for comparison. I can zoom in on any point in one and it will automatically zoom in on the same spot on the other and I can compare for focus, blur, etc. Then I can "reject" the worst of the 2 and it disappears and it pops up the next candidate in the group to compare to the current "winner". You can do this till you've narrowed it down to one, and that becomes my "pick". Pretty intuitive way to narrow down the list.
Well, I haven't decided which event I will tackle next. Stay tuned . . .
]]>Anyway, with all this new raw material to work with, I decided to change my approach to processing. I've been using Photoshop 5 and an older version of Nik Softwares suite of plugins to process the photos one at a time. Since I have so many negatives I decided to try Lightroom 4 and the latest version of the Nik software suite for Lightroom. Like Photoshop, Lightroom has a pretty steep learning curve but so far I'm really impressed with the way it manages large numbers of files. Although I did most of the photo processing in Nik software's Color Efex plugin. The latest version has some awesome filters.
The first batch of scans that I've prepared for this website is the 2003 Lijiang, China trip. I uploaded the photos early this morning so take a look. I still have to add captions and titles to the pictures.
]]>I just completed scanning over 450 photos that I took on a trip to China in 2003. I visited an incredibly picturesque little canal town named Lijiang over in the Yunnan province and hiked the length of the 11,000 foot deep Tiger Leaping Gorge. There's going to be some pretty good pictures come out of that trip. But I still have to post-process each of the raw scans first. But rather than jump right in and start processing the Lijiang photos I've decided to keep scanning while I'm on a roll. I'm now scanning film from a trip to the south of New Zealand that I did with my mother. This trip includes hiking the Milford Trek and the Routeburn Trek. They had just finished filming parts of the Lord of the Rings trilogy when we were there. There are about 30 rolls of film for this one. Not sure how soon I'll have either of these trips posted on this site so check back now and then. Hopefully within a couple of weeks or so.
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